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What size generator do you actually need?

Tick the appliances you would run at the same time. This tool adds up the running watts, then adds the single biggest startup surge, to give you the running and starting watts a generator needs, and the class to buy. The surge is what trips an undersized generator, so that is what we size on.

Read first: this is a planning estimate built on typical manufacturer wattage figures (Honda, Generac, Champion, and others). Real appliance watts vary a lot by model, so check the nameplate on your air conditioner, fridge, and pumps, which are the high-impact ones. Use this to plan and shop, then confirm against the actual ratings before you buy. And before anything else, read the carbon monoxide and backfeed safety section below: a generator is a life-safety device, not just a power source.

Worked example

Running a 13,500 BTU RV air conditioner (1,400 running, 2,900 starting) alongside a fridge, lights, and device charging totals about 2,370 running watts, but adding the air conditioner's single 1,500-watt startup surge pushes the peak to roughly 3,870 watts, so it needs a 4,000 to 4,500W generator, not the 3,000W class that looks big enough on paper. A soft-start on the air conditioner cuts that surge about 65 percent and can drop you a whole size.

How it's calculated: Running watts = sum of all simultaneous loads; starting watts (peak) = running total plus only the single largest startup surge (motors do not all start at once); recommended class clears both, with the surge usually setting the size.

What runs at the same time

Set how many of each you would run together at your busiest moment. The surge tag marks motors and compressors that spike on startup. Watts are typical; override from your nameplate where it matters.

Appliance How many
the big startup surge; this is usually the whole sizing problem
the biggest single surge in most rigs
residential or RV compressor fridge; surges when the compressor kicks on
tiny; never the number that sizes the generator
draws about 1,500W even if the box says 1,000W (that is cooking output)
resistive heat, no surge
resistive, no surge but a steady hog
120V element; resistive
small motor inrush; minor
the blower motor surges on start
electronic, no surge
electronic, no surge
negligible
electronic, no surge
for off-grid or home backup; big motor surge
for home backup; motor surge
job-site; big momentary surge

A planning estimate from typical wattage figures. Confirm your appliances' actual running and starting watts from their nameplates before you buy.

How the sizing math works

The calculator above is just this method applied to the appliances you pick. You can run it by hand.

Step 1: Add up the running watts of everything on at once

Running watts are the steady draw a device needs to keep going, and what a generator supplies continuously. List everything you would run at the same time and add up those running watts. That sum is the continuous load your generator has to carry without straining, so it sets the generator's rated (running) watts.

Step 2: Then add only the single biggest startup surge

Motors and compressors (an air conditioner, fridge, pump, or power tool) pull a brief burst of two to three times their running watts to start. Here is the key, and where most people oversize or undersize: you do not add up every surge, because motors do not all start at the same instant. You add only the single largest startup surge to your running total. That combined figure is the starting (peak) watts your generator's surge rating must clear, and for anything with an air conditioner it is almost always the number that decides the size.

Step 3: Add headroom, and never run flat out

Add roughly 20 percent on top so the generator is not pinned at its limit, and aim for a unit that does its normal work around half to three-quarters of capacity. A generator's 'starting watts' label is a momentary peak it can hold for only seconds, not a continuous rating, so never plan to run continuously at 100 percent. One honest shortcut for an RV air conditioner: a soft-start device cuts its startup surge by about 65 percent, which can drop you a whole generator size. The calculator models that if you toggle it on.

Before you run it: the safety that actually matters

Carbon monoxide kills, fast and silently

A gas generator's exhaust is carbon monoxide: odorless, colorless, and able to build to fatal levels within minutes. Run a generator outside only. Never run it indoors, in a garage, in an enclosed or partly enclosed space, in a van you sleep in, or within 20 feet of any door, window, or vent, even with them open. Keep the exhaust pointed away from people, prefer a model with a built-in carbon monoxide shutoff sensor, and use battery-powered carbon monoxide alarms. For powering an enclosed space you sleep in, a battery power station is the safe choice, because it has no engine and produces no carbon monoxide. Roughly 100 people die each year in the US from portable-generator carbon monoxide.

Never backfeed a wall outlet

Never plug a portable generator into a wall outlet to power a building's wiring, using a double-ended cord ("backfeeding"). It can electrocute utility workers on lines they believe are dead, and it can start a fire. To power a home, have a licensed electrician install a transfer switch or interlock. Otherwise, plug appliances directly into the generator, or into your RV's generator inlet, with heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension cords.

Running and starting watts, by appliance

Typical figures the tool starts from, drawn from manufacturer wattage charts (Honda, Generac, Champion). The starting column is what matters for motors and compressors; resistive and electronic loads start at the same watts they run at.

Appliance Running Starting
RV air conditioner, 13,500 BTU 1,400 W 2,900 W
RV air conditioner, 15,000 BTU 1,600 W 3,500 W
Refrigerator (compressor) 700 W 1,500 W
12V compressor fridge (portable) 55 W 120 W
Microwave 1,500 W same (no surge)
Coffee maker or kettle 1,000 W same (no surge)
Space heater (1,500W) 1,500 W same (no surge)
Electric water-heater element 1,440 W same (no surge)
RV water pump (12V) 90 W 200 W
Furnace or blower fan 600 W 1,500 W
TV and entertainment 150 W same (no surge)
Laptops, phones, charging 120 W same (no surge)
LED lights 60 W same (no surge)
Router or Starlink 90 W same (no surge)
Well pump (1/2 HP) 1,000 W 2,000 W
Sump pump (1/3 HP) 800 W 1,300 W
Power tool (circular saw) 1,400 W 2,400 W

A microwave's front-panel number is cooking output, not power draw, so it pulls more than it says. Appliance watts vary by model; the nameplate is the truth for your unit, especially for air conditioners and pumps.

Sizing power for the rig? Here is the gear

A generator is one way to make power, but it is not the only one, and for an enclosed space you sleep in it is the wrong one. A battery power station makes no carbon monoxide and no noise; an inverter and solar let you run off the battery bank without an engine at all. If you want to size that side instead, the RV Battery Runtime and RV Solar & Battery calculators are the no-fuel companions to this one.

How we are paid: the guides above contain affiliate links, and if you buy through them we earn a commission at no extra cost to you. It does not change what we recommend.

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Common questions

What size generator do I need to run an RV air conditioner?

A 13,500 BTU rooftop unit runs at about 1,300 to 1,600 watts but surges to roughly 2,800 to 3,000 watts on startup, so it needs the 3,000 to 3,500 watt class of generator. A 15,000 BTU unit surges higher, around 3,300 to 4,000 watts, and needs more, or a soft-start device, or load management. The startup surge, not the running draw, is the bottleneck. That is why a small 2,000 watt generator that looks big enough on paper trips out the moment the compressor kicks on. The calculator above sizes on the surge for exactly this reason.

What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?

Running watts are the steady power a device uses to keep operating. Starting watts are the brief, much higher burst a motor or compressor pulls for a fraction of a second to get spinning, often two to three times the running figure. Heaters, kettles, toasters, TVs, and laptops have no real surge, so their starting watts equal their running watts. Air conditioners, fridges, pumps, and power tools do surge. Size your generator so its running rating covers your total steady load and its starting rating covers your single biggest surge.

Can a 2,000 watt generator run an RV air conditioner?

Usually not on its own. A typical 2,000 to 2,200 watt inverter generator (like a Honda EU2200i) tops out around 2,200 surge watts, and a 13,500 or 15,000 BTU air conditioner's startup surge exceeds that, so the generator trips its overload protection and cuts out. The fix is a soft-start device (such as a Micro-Air EasyStart or SoftStartRV), which cuts the air conditioner's startup surge by roughly 65 to 70 percent. With one fitted, a 2,000 to 2,200 watt inverter can reliably run a single 13,500 BTU unit, as long as other big loads are not starting at the same moment.

What size generator for a 30-amp vs a 50-amp RV?

A 30-amp RV can draw at most 3,600 watts (120 volts times 30 amps), so a 3,000 to 3,500 watt inverter generator runs it comfortably, one air conditioner included. A 50-amp RV is a different animal: it has two 120-volt legs for up to 12,000 watts and often two air conditioners, so you generally need a 7,500 watt or larger generator, or you manage the load by not running everything at once. The calculator's recommendation follows whatever you actually tick, so it lands in the right class for your real setup rather than your rig's wiring rating.

What size generator do I need for a refrigerator?

A typical refrigerator runs at about 400 to 800 watts but surges to roughly 1,200 to 1,600 watts when the compressor starts, so any inverter generator of about 2,000 watts or more covers a fridge with room to spare. The surge is brief, but it is real, which is why a fridge counts as a surge load in the calculator while a TV or laptop does not. If the fridge is the only motor in your list, it becomes the single largest surge the tool adds to your running total.

Is it safe to run a generator while sleeping?

No. A gas generator's exhaust is carbon monoxide, an odorless, colorless gas that can build to fatal levels within minutes, and people who are asleep cannot recognize the symptoms in time. Never run a generator indoors, in a garage, in an enclosed or partly enclosed space, in a van you sleep in, or within 20 feet of any door, window, or vent, even with things open. Run it outside, well away, with the exhaust pointed away from you, and use battery-powered carbon monoxide alarms. For powering an enclosed space you sleep in, a battery power station is the safe answer, because it has no engine and produces no carbon monoxide.

Inverter generator or conventional generator?

For an RV, van, or boat, choose an inverter generator. It produces clean, stable power (under about 3 percent total harmonic distortion) that is safe for laptops, phones, and sensitive electronics, it is much quieter, it sips less fuel at light loads because the engine throttles to match the demand, and many models pair in parallel for more power. Conventional open-frame generators are cheaper per watt but louder, thirstier, and put out dirtier power that can be hard on electronics. The extra cost of an inverter is usually worth it for the way most of us actually use one.

Can I run my whole RV on one generator?

A 30-amp rig, yes: a 3,000 to 3,500 watt inverter generator runs one air conditioner plus the basics. A 50-amp rig with two air conditioners is harder, and you either step up to a 7,500 watt or larger unit or you manage the load, running one air conditioner at a time and not firing the microwave while something big is starting. Soft-start devices on the air conditioners help by shrinking the surges. Size it with the calculator for the loads you genuinely run together, not for the rig's full wiring capacity, which you rarely use all at once.

Disclaimer

This calculator is provided for general informational and educational purposes only and gives a planning estimate based on typical published appliance and generator figures current as of 2026. Real running and starting watts vary significantly by make, model, age, and condition, and the only authoritative numbers are the nameplate ratings on your own equipment. It is not engineering advice and not a guarantee that any generator will start or run any specific load. Generators involve serious hazards, including carbon monoxide poisoning and electrical shock or fire from improper connection; follow the manufacturer's instructions and all safety guidance, run units outdoors and well clear of occupied or enclosed spaces, and use a licensed electrician for any connection to building wiring. We make no warranty as to accuracy or fitness for any particular purpose. Last reviewed June 2026.

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