What size wire do I need for a given load and distance?
Size it two ways and take the larger. First for voltage drop, using the round-trip length and your system voltage: thinner wire over a long run drops too much voltage. Second for ampacity, the current the wire can carry without overheating. Long runs are usually limited by voltage drop, while short high-current runs like a windlass or inverter are limited by ampacity. Enter your load in amps, the one-way run, the voltage, and the circuit type above, and the calculator runs both checks and tells you which one governs.
Why does the calculator double my run length?
Because current has to flow out to the device and back to the battery, so the resistance that causes voltage drop is the full round-trip length of the wire, both the positive and the negative conductor. If you size off the one-way distance you halve the resistance in the math and end up a gauge or two too thin. Enter the one-way distance from the source to the device and the tool doubles it for the calculation.
What is voltage drop and why 3 percent versus 10 percent?
Voltage drop is the voltage lost to the resistance of the wire between the battery and the device. ABYC E-11 allows up to 3 percent on critical circuits (navigation lights, bilge pumps, electronics, and main feeders) and up to 10 percent on non-critical ones like cabin lighting. The reason to favor 3 percent is that a low-voltage device underperforms: dim nav lights, a slow bilge pump, electronics that brown out. When in doubt, design to 3 percent.
Does the wire size change inside the engine compartment?
Yes. A conductor in the hot engine space is rated for less current than the same wire in open air, because it has less room to shed heat. The calculator has an inside-engine-space option that uses the lower ampacity column. If current-carrying conductors are also bundled together for more than two feet, the bundle is derated further, and ABYC applies this once two or more are bundled, though for DC circuits that derate stops at 0.70. Worth knowing too: real engine bays, especially around a turbo or a tightly enclosed diesel, can run hotter than the table assumes, so lean conservative there.
What gauge wire for a windlass, inverter, or bilge pump?
Enter the device's current draw and run length and let the tool size it, because the answer depends entirely on the amps and the distance. High-draw DC motors like a windlass or a large inverter are usually ampacity-limited and need surprisingly heavy cable over even a short run, and they also have their own ABYC fuse rules tied to the motor rather than the generic wire rule. A bilge pump is a critical circuit, so size it to 3 percent voltage drop.
What size fuse do I need for my wire?
The fuse or breaker protects the wire, so its rating has to sit at or below the wire's ampacity, and at or above your load so it does not nuisance-trip. The calculator suggests the smallest standard size in that window, and ABYC lets you step to the next size up to 150 percent of the wire's ampacity. Main panel feeders, DC motor circuits, and engine cranking each follow their own rules. ABYC also wants the device within about 7 inches of the power source, or 72 inches if the wire runs in a sheath. Confirm overcurrent protection against the standard; it is a separate requirement from wire sizing.
Is marine wire different from regular wire?
Yes. Boat wiring uses stranded copper, not solid, because solid wire fatigues and breaks under vibration. It is almost always rated to 105 degrees C, and tinned copper is widely recommended for corrosion resistance in the salt air, though that is a best practice rather than an ABYC requirement. Marine ampacity is set by the ABYC E-11 tables, which differ from the household wiring tables, so do not size boat wire off a house-wiring chart. This calculator assumes 105 degrees C marine-grade wire. One sourcing check: buy AWG-rated marine wire, not SAE-rated, which carries about 10 percent less copper for the same gauge number and is not interchangeable with these tables.
Does this replace ABYC or a marine electrician?
No. It is a planning guide that implements the ABYC E-11 sizing method to get you to the right gauge and help you shop and understand a quote, not a substitute for the published standard or for a qualified installer. It sizes the conductor only, not the full circuit protection, and it cannot see your terminations, corrosion, or unusual heat sources. Confirm any wire you intend to install against ABYC E-11 or have an ABYC-certified technician review it.